Let me share with you 10 knitting tools that I actually use + 3 unexpected tools that will save you a lot of time and will definitely make you a better knitter.
I'm counting down from number 10 to the tool I can't knit without. Below you will find the full list with timestamps, and my notes on how I use each tool.
The list at a glance
- 10 - Row counters (0:19)
- 9 - Cable needles (2:36)
- 8 - Crochet hook (4:39)
- 7 - Scissors (7:22)
- 6 - Stitch holders (8:52)
- 5 - Tapestry needle (12:14)
- 4 - Gauge measuring tool (14:12)
- 3 - Measuring tape (16:39)
- 2 - Stitch markers (18:17)
- 1 - Knitting needles (21:00)
- Bonus: Scales (27:54)
- Bonus: Ball winder + Umbrella swift (29:15)
My top 10 knitting tools
10. Row counters
A very small tool that hangs on your needle among the stitches. It has two digits, and every time you pass it, you turn the wheel by one.
I use it in two ways:
- To count rows. For example, when the pattern says to decrease the sleeve every 10 rows.
- To count increases or decreases. When you knit a raglan sweater or a shawl, you might need to increase 40 times and end up with 350 stitches. Instead of recounting all the stitches every now and then, the row counter tells you that you are on increase number 38 and have two more to go.
I have two of them. One has a ring that goes on the needle. The other one came without it, so I made a loop out of scrap yarn myself. Works just as well.
9. Cable needles
This one is quite low in the list only because it depends on whether your pattern has cables. When the pattern tells you to put three stitches in front of the work, those stitches wait on the cable needle while you knit the next ones, and then you knit them straight from it.
I have a thinner one and a thicker one, and I pick the one that is closer to the size of my main needles. It makes the stitches easier to manipulate. I don't knit cables that often, but when I do, I'm really happy to have them.
8. Crochet hook
Maybe a bit unexpected in a knitting toolbox, but I use it all the time:
- Weaving in ends. Depending on the length of the tail, I use either a tapestry needle or a crochet hook, but the hook is normally much faster.
- Fixing dropped stitches. You pick up the ladder of loose stitches with the hook, one by one. It is fast and even fun, and because of that, dropping a stitch is not so stressful and scary anymore.
- Provisional cast-on. I make a chain with scrap yarn, and then use the hook to pick up the working yarn through the bumps of the chain. When it is time to free the stitches, you untie the knot, pull the scrap yarn, and the live stitches are there.
I'm pretty sure there are many more use cases. If you have one, please share it in the comments!
7. Scissors
An obvious one. Mostly I use them to trim yarn tails. Plant-based yarn is especially hard to break with your hands.
The less obvious use case is steeking. If you knit a colourwork cardigan in the round, one of the last steps is cutting your knitting down the middle. Some colourwork pullovers are knit without sleeve holes, and you cut them open in the end as well. There is no way back here: if you cut it, you cut it.
6. Stitch holders
When I knit a sweater and need to put the sleeve stitches on hold while I work on the body, there are several options:
- Scrap yarn. The easiest and the most accessible one. I used it a lot in the beginning: just slide the stitches onto a tapestry needle with a piece of scrap yarn attached.
- Spare cords from an interchangeable needle set. Slide the stitches onto the cord, take the needle tips off, and secure the ends with cord stoppers.
- Barber cords. This is what I use in all my projects now. They come in different diameters and lengths, and you can even buy a really long one and cut it to the length you need. I can only recommend them.
- Metal locking stitch holders. I own them in several sizes, but I'm not a big fan. The tip is a bit sharp, and the lock feels loose, so I don't fully trust it to stay closed.
5. Tapestry needle
I have a metal one and a plastic one, and I don't have a preference. I use them for:
- Weaving in ends, when I don't use the crochet hook.
- Kitchener stitch. For example, to close the toe when you knit socks from the top to the bottom.
- Italian or tubular bind-off. When the ribbing of a sweater is done, you are left with a really long tail of yarn and a lot of sewing. I like how it looks, but it is a bit fiddly and takes some time, so I'm happy to have my audiobook with me.
4. Gauge measuring tool
Gauge is the most crucial part of knitting, in my opinion. It is really sad when you were supposed to make one size of a garment and it turns out to be a different one just because the gauge was off. So before you start a project, make sure your gauge is the same as the pattern calls for.
The tool I have has a window that is 10 cm (4 inches) wide. You put it on top of your gauge swatch and count the stitches inside. It also has two more useful parts:
- a small blade to trim yarn,
- needle sizing holes. The size printed on wooden needles wears off with use, and this is how I find out which size I'm holding.
3. Measuring tape
Patterns tell you the finished measurements of the garment, so it is nice to know the measurements of the body it is meant for, whether it's you, a friend, or a family member.
My tip for choosing a size: measure a sweater that you already have in your wardrobe and like the fit of, and pick the pattern size that is the closest.
I also use the tape whenever the pattern says something like "knit 15 cm of stockinette and then...".
2. Stitch markers
I have plenty of them, and I'm a simple person: I like the standard plastic locking ones. I bought a big box, and now they live everywhere - in my backpack, in my needle sets, on my desk. You never know when you might need a stitch marker.
Because they lock and unlock, they are very versatile:
- Locked on the needle, it is a normal beginning-of-the-round marker.
- Attached to the fabric, it marks the place where I made the last sleeve decrease. Next time I just count the rows above the marker to see if it is time to decrease again.
I also own some fancy ones, with stones, and one with a little ship. They are cute, but they go click-click-click against my metal needles, and I don't like it. So they decorate my needle case instead.
1. Knitting needles
From the very beginning of my knitting journey, I understood that fixed circular needles are not the best way for me, and I invested in an interchangeable needle set. It wasn't a super expensive one, just KnitPro. It came with 4 or 5 cords, and I bought several more on top, because I'm not a monogamous knitter and have many projects going on at the same time. Later I added a ChiaoGoo set as well.
Why interchangeable needles:
- Control over the cord length. A really short cord for a hat, a long one for a shawl. For a blanket you can even join several cords together. I also use magic loop for small circumferences like sleeves and socks, which needs a longer cord.
- No pile of fixed needles. Today you buy a 5 mm needle with a 30 cm cord for a hat. Then the gauge is off, or the next pattern needs a different size, and soon you have a drawer full of needles where you can never find the right one.
- It is cheaper in the long run. You pay for the set once, plus a few extra cords. Buying fixed needles for each project adds up to much more.
- It is nicer for the environment to own fewer needles that you actually use.
I do have some fixed needles too, in the small sizes that you use for socks (2 mm to 3 mm), because the smallest tips in my sets are 2.75 mm (US 2).
And then there are DPNs, double-pointed needles, that people use for socks, hats and cowls. I own them, but I can't say I'm a big fan. They are a bit fiddly for my taste, and I like magic loop more. People are different though, and some really enjoy them.
If your circular needles are longer than your project needs, check my tutorial on how to start knitting in the round with too long circular needles.
Bonus tools
These are not strictly necessary, but they make my life so much easier.
Scales
Just standard kitchen scales. Yes, I use them for cooking too.
They are especially useful for leftovers. If I know the specs of the yarn, I weigh the ball and do a little bit of math. For example, the yarn has 200 m in 100 g, and my ball weighs 30 g, so I have about 60 m. Now I know if this yarn is enough for the project I have in mind.
Ball winder + Umbrella swift (Yarn swift)
I use them to wind yarn that comes in hanks, including my handspun yarn. Before I had them, I would put the hank over my knees or the back of a chair and wind the ball by hand. With these two tools it is just flying. It feels a little bit like magic to me.
As far as I know, many yarn shops will wind the yarn for you if you ask. But if you spin your own yarn, or you want to keep it in a nice and cute hank for a while, having these tools at home saves so much time. And the yarn cakes look so cute afterwards!
New to knitting?
You don't need all of these tools on day one. Here is what you actually need to make your first project.
Did I forget any useful tool that you have in your toolbox? Let me know in the comments. I would be curious to know, and maybe buy it for myself too.
